Things To Do Before Purchasing Vintage Watches For Sale

There are so many bright, shiny watches out there that you can buy from reputable retailers, that still have all their papers and that you know have all their original parts, so why buy vintage watches for sale?

In the same way that vintage car collectors may drive a modern one but collect vintage, the same is often true of watches. A vintage watch may not have the same toughness, accuracy or reliability as a modern one and it certainly won’t be covered by a three- or five-year warranty but it has history and reflects the development of watchmaking over the years. So if you want to buy one, here are the things you should do first. Read below.

Research

The first step of course is to educate yourself. The world of vintage watches for sale is about as esoteric as theoretical astrophysics and before you start drawing up plans for a Dyson sphere you’ll probably want to study up. As for where you get that education there are a few places you can go – the deep, dark world of forums; consulting ‘specialists’ – but here is a better idea: visit auction houses! This is where you will see expensive watches and what watch collectors want.  If a handful of collectors get into a bidding war over a watch, it’s one you should probably remember. It’s something that auctioneers have been getting on board with. Their catalogues tend to be fantastic at pinning down exactly what makes a watch desirable. They do want to sell them, after all.

Reliable retailer

Not all retailers are created equal – and not all are playing an honest game. They might have your dream watch, but don’t go in guns blazing as it might turn into a bit of an ambush. You can know reliable retailers through word-of-mouth. Ask around fellow collectors and even some of the auction houses. Both will have relationships with certain retailers and can point you in the right direction. Once you have two or three recommendations, you can go in and start talking to them yourself. You need to build rapport with a dealer – or dealers – that you think are trustworthy, preferably ones that are prepared to do swaps with you.

Investment piece

It is better if you look for an investment piece, such as Rolex and Patek Philippe, which are the go-to brands. Watches from these companies tend to rise in value most. You also need to focus on these watches' details. Small changes made between different versions of the same watch can mean the difference between a €4200 investment and a €42,000 investment. Do your research ahead of time and know exactly what you’re looking for.

First-class watches

A well-made watch is practically a piece of art. Look for a respected, sought-after movement, so you know your new watch isn’t going to freeze up the minute you strap it around your wrist. You need to buy vintage watches with a quality movement that is accurate and remarkably desirable. Also, look for the company’s logo on the case, dial, crown and movement for further proof that you’ve got a first-class watch on your hands.

Calendar features

Some of the most impressive vintage watches include awe-inspiring complications that boost their value. A perpetual calendar watch, for example, displays not only the date and month but also the day of the week, the year and the moon phase – all while accounting for the differing lengths of months and leap years. You only need to set the movement 3x every four centuries.

Service Records

You cannot know if a watch has been serviced, and one that is 25 years old or older need servicing at some point. However, service records are routinely overstated and sometimes faked entirely. It’s not always apparent if a service record has been faked, but there are tell-tale signs: no photos of the disassembled movement; a seller who “lost the service ticket” or fails to specify exactly who did the service, and so on. Sellers fake service records because vintage watches that come with them typically sell for more—sometimes a lot more—than those without. If you’re lucky, you may find a compulsive record-keeper selling a relatively inexpensive watch, but it rarely happens. There are also different levels of maintenance, ranging from a complete cleaning and rebuild to a quick check-up during which very little is done. If the seller is claiming that there was a full rebuild, you’ll want to get photographic proof before making the purchase, as you’ll be paying for that overhaul one way or the other.

Full sets

It would be best to buy a full set vintage watch. This means it still has its original packaging and paperwork, such as warranty cards, owner’s manual, sale receipts, and any service records. Full sets are worth more than partial sets and often a lot more than watches with none of the original accoutrements. But be wary of fake packaging or packaging from other watches, too.

These are the things you should do before purchasing vintage watches for sale. You also need to know if the case of the vintage watch you'll buy has been polished. The bright, shiny watch you have in the crosshairs may be the denuded husk of its former self, worn down over repeated polishings to resemble a smooth, featureless pebble plucked from a riverbed.

You should look for crisp lines and angles and a minimum of case scratches. If your watch checks out, it may be perfectly fine even if it has been polished. Just remember that a watch can bear only so many polishes in its lifetime, and you don't want to buy one that’s been polished to death.